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We were lucky to have an unseasonably
warm sunny October afternoon for our first slow food event at the
Garden of Eve Organic Farm, on the North Fork of Long Island. My
boyfriend, Alfred Vrang, and I have a business called 'Local Faire'.
We cook local organic food, from scratch, for dinner parties and
small gatherings. Alfred is a french trained chef and I am a health
food connoisseur. We spent my birthday, this July, volunteering
at the farm, picking flowers and hanging them up in the barn. This
big red hay barn also serves as a market for the produce grown
there and it was a wonderful place to throw a luncheon inspired
by the local flora and fauna.
We spent the early morning at the farm picking vegetables and
gathering eggs. The whole experience was very romantic and idyllic:
The old farm house, surrounded by vineyards and Halloween pumpkins,
the old sheep baahhing into the wind coming across the Long Island
sound, cooking with love, in love and with farm fresh ingredients
which had never been in the fridge. It is a dream for any chef.
We were so happy to be there, joined by a convivial group of
city and country folk. Each guest brought a bottle of New York
wine to share, which was really great as there are are so many
wonderful wines from this region.
 Harvesting a cart full of vegetables for 35 people was a bunch
of work. It’s incredible that Garden of Eve farm seeds
and harvests over 70 varieties of vegetables and herbs! Each
species requires its own particular care, pest control and maintenance,
one reason why most farms focus on mono-culture crops. It was
beautiful to see the long rows of purple peppers, a dozen or
so varieties of tomatoes, flowering broccoli, patches of chard,
kale and collards, and a volunteer row of pea shoots all together
like a gigantic composed salad. (It had the feeling of a family
garden, but amazingly the Garden of Eve supplies all the Brooklyn
CSA's, as well as selling at farmer's markets all over the city).
 For the main course we served rose-crusted, grilled duck breast
over purple cabbage salad, and braised duck legs with chestnuts
over arugula. The ducks were from Crescent Duck Farm in Riverhead,
one of the last remaining duck farms on LI. (My mother remembers
eating Long Island duck as a young girl. They were a delicacy
then, and they still are.) When Alfred likes something sincerely
his eyes literally twinkle, as they did when he carved up the
ducks, chopping down the bones for sauce, separating giblets
for stuffing and fat to cook with.
 We made three different stuffed vegetables, or petit farsi, “little
parcels”: Rainbow chard stuffed with a "risotto" of
celery root, potato, and turnips; mini pumpkins stuffed with
fennel, orange, and pea shoots; and poached kohlrabi stuffed
with duck giblets and broccoli flowers.
 After everyone was served I passed around the scallops we had
grilled and brushed with a garlic parsley persillade. For years,
phytoplankton has destroyed the commercial scallop catch in the
nearby Shinnecock and Mauritius bays, but they're now making
a comeback, and we were able to buy them, hours out of the water,
from Danowski's Fish Market. We could smell the nearby Atlantic
and the special briny tinge of fresh scallops (not sterilized,
as they often are) as we washed out the sand and prepared them
for the grill.
Our homemade sourdough bread was sprinkled with wild fennel
seeds, from a nearby meadow, and baked in the farm’s cast
iron range. Alfred loved that stove. It had guts, history, force,
and “seasoning”.
It was such a pleasure to cook at Garden of Eve farm, saving
all the scraps for the goats and chickens, composting the rest,
nothing going to waste. This is a working farm, and the chickens
have their job too. They eat fresh vegetable scraps everyday
and get moved around in their own special mobile coop which spreads
their droppings to different parts of the farm, fertilizing the
crops as they go. Then there are the nocturnal italian dogs,
whose job it is to watch over the chickens. Life on a farm is
a constant cycle. As we ate, giant hawks circled the farm. I
think they smelled the duck gizzard stuffing.
I tried to imagine what life on the farm would have been like,
before access to many outside ingredients. There are no olive
trees, and no lemons... but plenty of grapes. We would have made
our own vinegar, and other nice things from fermented grapes.
I think we would survive just fine.
Written by Linda Serbu

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